The 2019 Meursault Clos du Cromin is textural and gourmand, bursting with aromas of pear, tangerine, hazelnuts and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated, it's nicely balanced and full of character.

Another bright, focused wine, the 2010 Meursault Clos du Cromin shows richer, more yellow tonalities in its fruit than the Corbins, with light honeyed notes that add complexity, roundness and depth. This is an inviting wine from Francois Bitouzet. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. (Not yet released) I find much to like in Francois Bitouzet’s 2010 whites. The wines are a bit tighter (in a good way) and more focused than they have been at times. Bitouzet told me he used just the heart of the press, as he wasn’t totally happy with the first press juice. Bitouzet did very little batonnage in 2010, a decision that seems to have paid off handsomely. The harvest started on September 22, quite late, and the malos were lengthy, as they were virtually everywhere. Bitouzet bottled his 2010 whites in March 2012. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2009 Meursault Clos du Cromin is another relatively rich, open wine. It shows plenty of peach, apricot and spice notes, along with an open personality that suggests it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. This looks to be on a faster track than the Corbins. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Francois Bitouzet showed me a wide range of wines during my visit to the estate in June, 2011. Unfortunately most of the 2010s were still going through malo and were hard to read, but I did have chance to go through the 2008s, which I have included here. The whites are aged for 12 months in oak, 20-25% new. The village wines are then racked into steel for a further 4-6 months, while the premier crus are racked back into barrel. The extended aging in oak for some of the wines and use of batonnage are among the factors that give these whites a fair amount of textural richness and depth, even in cooler, more reticent vintages such as 2008. New oak is between 20-25%. The 2009s were bottled in February 2011. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2008 Meursault Clos du Cromin is notable for the way it blossoms in the glass. Sweet, layered aromatics lead to expressive fruit in this generous, inviting Meursault. The freshness of the vintage balances some of the tendency towards richness in this bottling. I especially like the elegance of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Francois Bitouzet showed me a wide range of wines during my visit to the estate in June, 2011. Unfortunately most of the 2010s were still going through malo and were hard to read, but I did have chance to go through the 2008s, which I have included here. The whites are aged for 12 months in oak, 20-25% new. The village wines are then racked into steel for a further 4-6 months, while the premier crus are racked back into barrel. The extended aging in oak for some of the wines and use of batonnage are among the factors that give these whites a fair amount of textural richness and depth, even in cooler, more reticent vintages such as 2008. New oak is between 20-25%. The 2009s were bottled in February 2011. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The marzipan-scented 1999 Meursault Clos du Cromin is medium-bodied, broad, rich, and plump. Spices, almond cake, and poached pears can be found in its lush and dense character. Drink this wine over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.