While the 1989 Meursault-Clos du Cromin is a backward style of Meursault, it is a stunning wine. The huge nose of smoky hazel-nuts, butter, and citrus is followed by a tightly knit, yet full-bodied, immense style of Meursault that coats the palate. The wine has good acidity, but is extremely unevolved. It should drink well for at least a decade. The fact that Meursault had extremely small yields in 1989 is evident in the concentration levels of almost every producer's wines. In fact, I have noticed that some Meursault have a rare thickness of texture. Bitouzet-Prieur, a winemaker who normally turns out Meursaults of uncommon elegance and finesse, has produced atypically blockbuster wines in 1989. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.