The Luneau-Papin 2009 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos des Alees is uncommonly lush not to mention luscious for its genre, with scents of honeydew melon, mint, and licorice setting the tone for the entire vinous performance. Fresh lime and salt enliven the palate while hints of nut oils and coffee add further richness. Yet for all of that richness, this wonderful value remains juicily, consummately refreshing as well as (at only 12% alcohol) light. Plan to relish it over the next 2-3 years. No Muscadet estate is rendering consistently finer or more intriguing wines than Luneau-Papin, and given the prices asked there is no excuse for any lover of wine not making their acquaintance. (Incidentally, I have not yet tasted Luneau-Papin's L d'Or bottlings from 2008 - which is current - nor the 2009, which will not be released before next year; so this report is unfortunately missing two almost certain stars that no reader with any curiosity whatsoever about Muscadet or about the world's greatest wine values should miss.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

The 2007 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos des Alees Vieilles Vignes smells of fresh lime with Chenin-like suggestions of quince and smoky candle wick. A rather austere combination of citrus zest with chalk and a wet stone mineral character on the palate leads to a finish whose alkaline, stony, chalky dimensions are fascinating as is, but will come into their own with a bit of creative food-and-wine pairing. Enjoy this over the next 18-24 months, and don’t be surprised if it is more generous a year from now than today. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191