The Luneau-Papin 2009 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos des Alees is uncommonly lush not to mention luscious for its genre, with scents of honeydew melon, mint, and licorice setting the tone for the entire vinous performance. Fresh lime and salt enliven the palate while hints of nut oils and coffee add further richness. Yet for all of that richness, this wonderful value remains juicily, consummately refreshing as well as (at only 12% alcohol) light. Plan to relish it over the next 2-3 years. No Muscadet estate is rendering consistently finer or more intriguing wines than Luneau-Papin, and given the prices asked there is no excuse for any lover of wine not making their acquaintance. (Incidentally, I have not yet tasted Luneau-Papin's L d'Or bottlings from 2008 - which is current - nor the 2009, which will not be released before next year; so this report is unfortunately missing two almost certain stars that no reader with any curiosity whatsoever about Muscadet or about the world's greatest wine values should miss.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191