Barruol does a lovely job with Condrieu, which he sources from Malleval, what he calls "the cold corner of Condrieu." His 2020 Condrieu features flowery, blossom-like aromas, plus subtle pear and spice shadings. It's only medium-bodied, but provides hints of Viognier's opulence, with a long, silky-textured finish that barely hints at bitterness.

Honeyed aromas of super ripe fruit lead the way in Saint Cosme's 2019 Condrieu. Mango and apricot lead the way although the wine does retain a minor floral component and hints of peppery, aniseed-like spice. It's full-bodied, round and mouthfilling, yet avoids any sense of oiliness or heaviness—no small feat in a white wine that's labeled at 15% abv. Still, I'd drink this vintage young.

Saint-Cosme's 2016 Condrieu delivers a lusty, mouth-filling mélange of mandarin oranges and ripe apricots. Full-bodied, lush and silky, it's round and mouthfilling but finishes clean and dry. Just lovely stuff for drinking over the next 3-4 years.