The 2012 Barbaresco Valgrande, with fruit from the village of Treiso, is a simple and clean expression with wild berry aromas followed by smoke and ash. The presentation here is simple and bright. The wine is thickly textured and almost gritty in terms of mouthfeel.

Of course, the Nebbiolos are nothing to sneeze at. The 2010 Barbaresco Valgrande, on the other hand, delivers a heightened sense of elegance and feminine restraint. The bouquet is redolent of cola, tar, blue flower, rosehip with faint hints of exotic spice. The tight grip of the tannins – firm without being astringent – gives this wine the attributes needed for longer cellar time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Giulio Grasso’s family entered the wine business “l(fā)ate,” as he tells it, because his male ancestors were soldiers in the various World Wars. Only after the turmoil in Europe settled, in the mid 1950s, did the family start to bottle wine. The estate’s most precious vineyard, the three hectares they own in the Asili cru, was a wedding dowry from Giulio’s grandmother (from Barbaresco) to his grandfather (from Treiso). Today, the family owns 25 hectares including the Valgrande and Marcarini crus in Treiso and the Asili and Pora crus in Barbaresco. Giulio’s father, Ernesto, farms the vineyards today at age 91.The Ca’ del Baio line-up is extremely impressive and delightful. These are some of the best wines from Barbaresco. Importer: Casa Bruno, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429; Bertin Henri Selections; tel. (305) 343-4054

The 2009 Barbaresco Valgrande is considerably more powerful and muscular than the Asili. Leather, iron, scorched earth, tar and smoke all emerge from this decidedly virile, imposing Barbaresco. Here, too, the wine’s balance is impeccable. The Valgrande isn’t quite as fleshy as the Asili, but it is perhaps a bit more complex and certainly more structured. All around, this is a lovely wine, even if it is something of a brute today. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ca’del Baio this year. As always, the house style favors a juicy, fruit-forward expression of Nebbiolo. These supple, delicious Barbareschi will be ready to drink pretty much upon release. Various American importers, including Casa Bruno, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429; Caroline Debbane’ Selection, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (323) 472-5242; Bertin Henri Selections; tel. (305) 343-4054

The 2008 Barbaresco Valgrande shows a little more focus and Nebbiolo typicity in its sweet red cherries, crushed flowers, spices and mint. High-toned floral notes add energy and lift through to the finish. This is an undeniably pretty Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Various American importers, including: Casa Bruno, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429, Caroline Debbane’ Selection, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (323) 472-5242; Bertin Henri Selections; tel. (305) 343-4054