The 2009 Barbaresco Valgrande is considerably more powerful and muscular than the Asili. Leather, iron, scorched earth, tar and smoke all emerge from this decidedly virile, imposing Barbaresco. Here, too, the wine’s balance is impeccable. The Valgrande isn’t quite as fleshy as the Asili, but it is perhaps a bit more complex and certainly more structured. All around, this is a lovely wine, even if it is something of a brute today. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ca’del Baio this year. As always, the house style favors a juicy, fruit-forward expression of Nebbiolo. These supple, delicious Barbareschi will be ready to drink pretty much upon release. Various American importers, including Casa Bruno, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429; Caroline Debbane’ Selection, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (323) 472-5242; Bertin Henri Selections; tel. (305) 343-4054