Opening in the glass with a rich bouquet of wild berries, cassis, orange rind, rich spices, loamy soil, black truffles and toasty new oak, the 2020 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a rich, enveloping core of fruit, ripe tannins and lively acids. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, it's a terrific wine in the making.

The 2019 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is destined to be much less controversial than its 2018 predecessor, as Bouchard was able to determine the date of harvest this year. Wafting from the glass with notes of cherries, woodsmoke, dried flowers, licorice and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, bright and tightly wound, with real concentration and a long, precise finish.

From bottle, the 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru wafts from the glass with pretty aromas of cassis, cherries, black tea, rose petals and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a textural attack, a fleshy, succulent core of fruit and a pure and expansive finish. Open-knit and charming, the wine's powdery, melting tannins are largely concealed. This is a generous, head-turning Clos de Bèze that delivers immense pleasure, albeit comparatively little in the way of profundity.

The 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has much better definition and focus than the Chapelle-Chambertin at this stage: copious black and red fruit that feels more regimented and precise. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, layers of blackberry, blueberry and a touch of burnt toast leading to a structured and symmetrical finish that bodes well for bottle age. This will rank alongside the 2015 Clos de Bèze—superb.