A blend of 75% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 3% Cinsault, Counoise and Vaccarese, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition delivers plenty of charming strawberry and raspberry fruit alongside delicate hints of spice and garrigue. It's full-bodied and velvety in feel, but it seems to lack a bit of depth and richness at this time—perhaps that will develop with a bit more élevage.

More concentrated and slightly darker-fruited than the 2020, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition boasts scents of clove and allspice alongside ripe cherries. It's full-bodied and richly tannic but also mouthwatering and long. It's a sturdy CdP that can be drunk young with grilled beef or lamb or aged and then paired with rich braises and stews.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition gives the impression of dusty earth and finely ground spices on the nose, all coating a core of ripe cherries. It's medium to full-bodied, silky and concentrated, with nice grip and persistence on the finish, where it picks up hints of cocoa powder and ground cloves. It's turned out even better—more structured and complete—than I expected after last year's visit to the estate.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition is a top effort for an entry-level wine. Bottled in March, it features peppery notes, dried spices and ripe cherries on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, it finishes long and intense, adding hints of salted licorice. It should drink well for at least a decade.

A terrific example of this bottling, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition is a blend of 75% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and tiny amounts of Cinsault, Counoise and Vaccarèse. About 40% was destemmed in this textbook vintage, the fruit coming from 40 different parcels around the appellation. Floral and raspberry notes emerge on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied but silky textured, ending on subtle shadings of Provence herbs and licorice. It's a relative bargain that's easy to drink now, but it should easily go a decade or more in a cool cellar.