Salt spray and smoked meat in the nose of the Pavelot 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Peuillets return on a palate that combines palpable extract-richness with buoyancy and fine grain of tannin. Both raw red meat and smoked meat elements dominate on a lip-smackingly saline finish that really tugs at the salivary glands, and in which tart cherry and rhubarb seems almost an afterthought. Peuillets Pinots have this knack of making you wonder how they could come from grapes, as well as a knack for holding up in cellar far longer than you would ever have imagined. In this instance, I’d bet on at least a dozen years’ intrigue and versatility. The Pavelot 2008s did not even begin their malos until July, and none had been bottled when I visited to taste them late last winter, but I tasted them – with the exception of a Narbantons Pavelots weren’t ready to show me – in final form. Hugues Pavelot insists that he and his father didn’t need to cull more than 5% of the fruit they harvested in either 2008 or 2007, and given the exciting quality of their 2008s, all that remains necessary to verify his claim is to count barrels. Assiduous greening of the rows was especially beneficial in 2008 for controlling water and thus vineyard humidity and rot, Pavelot maintains. Hail in this commune hit both Bourgogne and non-cru Savigny vineyards, but you would never know it to taste the corresponding wines at this address. This estate (like the best wines of Savigny in general) has long represented an under-appreciated source of outstanding value, but never more so than from 2008; and while the several 2007s I tasted pointed to a more pedestrian performance, they nevertheless confirmed Domaine Pavelot’s reliability. (Incidentally, 2008 is the inaugural vintage for an amazing Pavelot Corton-Charlemagne, about which I’ll publish notes on a later occasion.) Becky Wassserman Selections (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70