The 2011 Echezeaux Grand Cru is raised in 90% new oak. It is buttoned up on the nose at first: straight-laced with strict red currant and raspberry leaf scents. The palate has tannic opening although it shows a little more cohesion than the Vosne 1er Crus, while the tannins seem finer on the finish. It is still tightly-wound, although it should evolve nicely with four or five years in bottle. Drink 2016-2025.
I have been visiting Jeremy and Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac for several years now, and it is always one of my favorite ports of call. Alec, looking surprisingly chipper for a new dad had taken time off nappy duty to guide me through the 2011s this year. I have to confess that I was concerned by the conspicuous nature of the new oak on both their negociant label wines and the entry Village Crus. I felt that 35% new oak tended to overwhelm the fruit and terroir and occasionally impart drying finishes, which is why my scores are parsimonious here. As I tasted through the range toward the flock of Grand Crus the oak seemed better assimilated, although I would still maintain that the wine is of such quality that the present level of oak risks being superfluous to requirements. All the negociant label wines were bottled before Christmas.
Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500
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