Worn-in leather, tobacco, incense and smoke are some of the notes that emerge as the 2008 Barolo Sori Gepin opens up in the glass. This is a decidedly medium-bodied wine from La Spinona, but here, too, all the elements are in sync. The tannins, so often a problem here, are firm yet polished. Today the 2008 is quite classic in personality, but it won’t take forever to come around. In fact, it is already delicious right now. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700