The 2006 Barolo Sori Gepin is a promising wine with expressive aromatics and good delineation in its fruit, until the hardest and most angular of tannins hit the palate and totally take over the wine’s balance. This is just too austere to conceivably deliver much in the way of pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. La Spinona is a curious producer. The wines often show very attractive fruit, yet they are typically very austere, even within the context of traditionally-made Barbaresco and Barolo. Personally, I believe there is a lot of untapped potential here. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Restrained yet attractive Nebbiolo complexity on the nose: red and black fruit, spice, tobacco and perfume. Juicy strawberry fruit on the palate with refreshing acidity. Elegant style with high but integrated tannins and richness of flavour. Alc: 14%.