The irrepressible Henri Bonneau has produced a great 1998 that was still fermenting when I tasted it in late June. Bonneau thinks the 1998 will take a while to ferment. Given his leisurely, anti-commercial way of releasing wines, consumers will probably not see this wine before 2004/5. The following tasting note short is primarily of academic interest. It is hard to know what Henri Bonneau will release next. Certainly the 1998 will be a Reserve des Celestins, but many of us will be close to retirement by the time it is released. With about 2-4 grams of residual sugar per liter left in the 1998, this mammoth, still fermenting wine reveals the tell-tale Henri Bonneau characteristics - roasted meat and beef blood scents, and a super-rich, nearly over-ripe style with notions of prunes, kirsch, blackberries, truffles, cedar, and jus de viande. Remarkable unctuosity and layers of concentration further characterize this mammoth wine. This is the wine of an uncompromising genius who could care less about making money. He is more concerned about the future of Chateauneuf du Pape than he is about his bank account. The 1998 should be a classic .... but who knows when it will be released. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173