The fact that Meursault had extremely small yields in 1989 is evident in the concentration levels of almost every producer's wines. In fact, I have noticed that some Meursault have a rare thickness of texture. Bitouzet-Prieur, a winemaker who normally turns out Meursaults of uncommon elegance and finesse, has produced atypically blockbuster wines in 1989. The 1989 Meursault-Perrieres is backward, rich, and profound. Like so many of the greatest wines from this vineyard, it smells like Montrachet, has the backbone of Montrachet, but sells for one-fourth the price of Montrachet. As I have said many times, if Burgundy ever does a reclassification, the Perrieres vineyard should merit grand cru status. While this wine is backward, it is also most concentrated, complete, and complex, and displays a restrained underlying mineral, buttery richness. This big, rich, blockbuster-styled, tightly knit Meursault should provide sensational drinking for the next 10-12 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.