The fact that Meursault had extremely small yields in 1989 is evident in the concentration levels of almost every producer's wines. In fact, I have noticed that some Meursault have a rare thickness of texture. Bitouzet-Prieur, a winemaker who normally turns out Meursaults of uncommon elegance and finesse, has produced atypically blockbuster wines in 1989. When I tasted the 1989 Meursault-Charmes, it was excessively oaky, and almost too much of a good thing. While there is no doubting its massive feel on the palate, the oak was intrusive, raising concerns about what direction the wine might take. If it settles down (something larger-scaled wines such as this have a tendency to do), this could turn out to be a compelling bottle of Meursault. Although I admire its size and richness, it is presently in an awkward, clumsy stage. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.
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