The 1996 Chardonnay Ovation is a viscous, full-bodied, concentrated wine with aromas of smoked nuts, white peaches, and honeyed citrus fruit. Ripe, multi-dimensional, chewy, and exceptionally complex, this could easily pass for a top grand cru from Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet. It should drink well for 2-3 years. Ovation, Phelps' flagship Chardonnay, is a serious wine made in the style of a grand cru white Burgundy. It is given full lees stirring, 14 months of aging in Louis Latour barrels, and is bottled without filtration. Limited quantities of 1,500 cases are produced. While Phelps has a well-deserved reputation for their Vin de Mistral series, and a splendid portfolio of red wines, this winery has made significant progress with their Chardonnay program. I remember the days when the Chardonnays were rather bland and insipid, but that has all changed. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831