The 2009 Viognier "Eclectique - Spilitsa" comes from 21-year-old vines in the Argolida area. Spilitsa is the name of the vineyard, referencing a small cave under the vineyard. The "Eclectique" references the complications in growing the grapes there and the treatment they received. Owner George Skouras says, among other things, "We ferment in oak barrels - all new - Chatillonais Jupille, very light toasted. After the fermentation and the malolactic fermentation we separate the lees and we do aeration in a way to reduce any reduction power. After one month we put back the lees in the wine using some lees from last year. This way we protect the wine from the oak. The wine stays in the oak sur lie for one year." It did not always handle the new oak as well as it should early on. That said, it came around quite well. This is tasty and otherwise well constructed. After letting it warm a bit and holding it open awhile, it did show acidity cutting through the oak and there was some intensity on the finish. If you like its style, this certainly has many merits and more than I initially thought it had. If you want a little restraint, Skouras' own Larsinos would be a good choice at a more modest price. Drink now-2013. Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

A nose of peach, nutmeg, toasted nut and honey leads this Viognier from Splitsa. On the palate, smooth waves of white fruit, orange blossom and honey are expressive but refreshing, thanks to the balanced acidity. A fun wine with class. ——S.K.(6/1/2011)—— 88