In bottle for three weeks, a 2005 Volnay Caillerets offered vivid cherry and red currant, rich meat and mushroom stock, chalk dust, flowers and brown spices on the nose. In the mouth, a lovely counterpoint of creaminess of texture with fresh, firm black fruit character, highly refined tannins, and a striking level of purity and delineation of floral, carnal, fruit and fungal flavors offer convincing evidence for Saouma’s thesis that Caillerets is the greatest site in the Cote de Beaune. This finishes with enormous concentration yet also elegance and ravishing refinement, truly the epitome of great Volnay. Too bad there are only two barrels! The last comment I spoke into my tape recorder on tasting this was “it’s a little disconcerting to come to a cellar and have this be the first wine”! Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000