The 2007 Barbaresco Paje Vecchie Vigne is a serious wine. Juicy dark cherries, tar, mint, licorice and menthol burst from the glass in this exuberant, intensely perfumed wine. As open and seductive as this is, there is plenty of underlying structure. The 2007 is wonderfully alive and vivid in the glass. The finish is at once powerful and weightless in the way only Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo can be. This is an exemplary wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Readers will note a change with these new releases from Luca Roagna. The top Barolo and Barbaresco selections are all being released at the same time, which means there is basically one vintage on the market at a time, rather than the mish-mash of vintages that was previously the custom. Roagna has also stepped up the quality of his corks, which is quite welcome for wines that are meant to age for decades. As always, the winemaking style at Roagna is deeply imbued in tradition. Late harvests, extended macerations and long aging in neutral oak inform wines of great personality. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191