The 2007 Roero Riserva Roche d’Ampsej is another big, textured wine loaded with fruit and French oak. Sweet candied cherries, spices, vanillin and dried roses are some of the notes that emerge from this plush, soft Nebbiolo. The high percentage of sand in this terrain gives the wine much of its inner perfume and sweetness. As good as this is, it’s hard not to feel the wine is trapped in the past. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Even with the recent emergence of a number of growers in Roero, Correggia remains a reference-point winery. This year marks the tenth anniversary of Matteo Correggia’s untimely passing. In a decade that has seen such a huge explosion of quality in Piedmont and Roero it is only natural to wonder what kind of wines Correggia might be making if he were alive today. But you can’t live in the past, and the reality is that this is a very fine set of wines from the estate. As is often the case, many of the true jewels lie among the simpler offerings.Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119, AHAWines, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 806-4472, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411

Here is yet another Roero Riserva from the successful 2007 vintage that shows a good use of oak set against tighter sour berry nuances. The wine is approachable and ready to drink, with a clean, upfront personality. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 89