The 2004 Roero Roche d’Ampsej comes across as somewhat closed, yet it also appears to offer much potential. Made in an intense, weighty style, it gradually sneaks up on you with its velvety texture and layers of dark cherries, spices, smoke and sweet toasted oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411