The Usseglios have fashioned a delicious 2003 white Chateauneuf du Pape (fine vintage for these largely ignored whites) made primarily from the white clone of Grenache. It possesses a big, unctuous texture in addition to loads of assorted tropical fruit and pear notes, good acidity, and no notion of wood. It should drink well for 1-2 years. One cannot say enough about the extraordinary qualitative revolution that has quietly taken place at this well-known domaine north of the village of Chateauneuf du Pape. While father Pierre is still on the premises, providing a wealth of historical information about the vineyards, his two sons, Jean-Pierre and Thierry, have introduced two extra-special cuvees, pushing this estate into the top echelon of Chateauneuf du Pape producers. This domaine is notorious for incredibly low yields (in 2003 yields were 25-28 hectoliters per hectare) as well as traditional winemaking. They now have a small, 1-hectare plot of vin de pays planted with Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante, and Merlot. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173