The 1998 Meursault Genevrieres is confounding. Its aromas range from apricots and tropical fruits to those found in yeasty Belgian beers. Medium-bodied, rich, oily-textured, and plump, its personality appears to have loads of ripe fruit, but then quickly dissipates on the palate as evidenced by the watery finish. There is no harshness or tangy acidity in this wine (as there can be in many 1998s), yet it lacks sustained power and persistence. Drink it over the next 5 years.
Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.
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