What Lafon achieved in 1991 is extraordinary. His wines are the greatest wines of the vintage. Lafon rarely filters his wines. In 1991 he put most of the cuvees of white wine in the bottle with neither fining nor filtration.
Lafon's 1991s are the wines of the vintage. Modestly, Lafon says he took some unnecessary gambles by waiting out the rains and picking late, harvesting fruit that was not diluted. The results are splendidly rich, full-bodied wines with amazing intensity. They are as exceptional as the 1990s, and superior to Lafon's 1988s, 1987s, and 1986s. Average yields were 25 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 55-70 at other domaines. Three of the four single-vineyard Meursaults were outstanding. The closed 1991 Meursault-Les Genevrieres does not reveal the power, richness, and complexity of the Clos de la Barre, Les Charmes, or Les Perrieres. Nevertheless, I was impressed with its lemon/apple blossom-scented nose, rich, medium-bodied flavors, and crisp acidity (a rarity for a 1991). I intend to retaste the wine in a year to see if it has opened. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA.
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