Surprisingly, the Meursault Genevrieres finished its malo-lactic fermentation prior to completing its alcoholic fermentation, a rarity in this vintage. Golden aromas of ripe pears, dry flowers, and white peaches complement the wine's immense concentration, intensity of flavor, and superb definition on the palate. This wine's massive yet elegant, full-bodied, opulent, and oily character is jam-packed with spicy poached pears, cloves, juniper berries, fresh herbs, and cardamon. Projected maturity: 2002-2009. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Dominique Lafon performed more batonnage than usual on his 1996s, "to give them more richness," he said. However, unlike some other vignerons, Lafon abandons the practice when the malos start because he wants his wines to be protected by the carbon dioxide gas that is a by product of a wine's malo-lactic fermentation. Lafon's yields were between 35 and 45 hectoliters/hectare, demonstrating his dedication to quality in this potentially high-yielding vintage. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.