There is something elusive about the 2010 Chablis La Forest, but a serious core of fruit lies behind the feminine, sensual bouquet. White peaches, mint, jasmine and crushed rocks are layered into the sleek, silky finish. Once again, the Forest is all about understatement and class. This is another superb, incisive 2010 from Dauvissat. I also tasted the 2002, which is just entering its early maturity. As delicious as it is, I don’t expect the 2002 Forest to be extremely long lived by the estate’s standards. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Vincent Dauvissat brought in his 2011s beginning on September 1st. Dauvissat likes the vintage, comparing it to 2009, but with a little more verve. For the first time malos were done by Christmas, which Dauvissat attributes to the precocious personality of the vintage. I tasted all of the 2011s from barrel, where they were aging on their fine lees after having been racked once. Dauvissat talks about the 2010 harvest as having two components. The fruit he brought in early had notable maturity and considerable concentration because of the tiny yields, while the fruit that came in after the September rain had a little bit better overall balance, which is to say alcohols around 12.5% and acidities that ranged from 6-7%, versus 13.5% and 7.5%, alcohol and acidity respectively, for the fruit harvested first. As a comparison, overall acidities for the 2011s were around 4%, significantly lower than 2010. Dauvissat told me his father planted the family’s vineyards with rootstocks that encourage early maturation, and that is a key in understanding many vintages at the domaine, including 2010, when an irregular flowering lowered yields dramatically. In 2010, the earlier flowering parcels got the worst of the bad weather, while the parcels that flowered later did better as the weather turned warmer and more stable at the most critical time. Overall yields were down approximately 40%. Sechets and Vaillons were also hit by frost. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802