While much commercial Chablis is utterly predictable, Vincent Dauvissat's old-fashioned, artisanal wines are anything but: their phases of evolution and the way they respond to oxygen are unlike almost anything else in the region. The 2005 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest proves that point perfectly. On opening, mature aromas of honeycomb and marzipan suggest the wine might be tiring, but the longer the bottle is open, the younger the wine seems, its bouquet segueing into a mélange of citrus oil, dried white flowers and oyster shell, relegating those notions of honeycomb and marzipan to the background. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with a powerful, layered core that's structured around notable dry extract and ripe but tangy acids, concluding with a long, beautifully defined finish. As the wine ages, it is more marked by producer and vineyard than it is by its vintage signature, which is another recurring theme when tasting Dauvissat's wines.