The 2004 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron has a dark ruby color and a nice herbal nose with pure cherry notes intermixed with hints of espresso, dried herbs, and spice. It is pure, medium-bodied, lacking great concentration, but well-made and put together in an elegant, mid-weight style. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Supple and focused, with alluring black cherry and currant fruit intertwined with mocha, sanguine and iron notes. The finish is long and fine-grained. Has nice length and depth for the vintage. Drink now through 2011. 925 cases made. -JM