The 2008 Dolcetto di San Luigi is wonderfully pure in its fresh, mineral laced fruit. The San Luigi shows the power typically associated with the Dolcettos of Dogliani, but there is a wonderful streak of minerality that keeps the wine’s balance intact. This is a very complete, entry-level Dolcetto from the Pecchenino brothers. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Here’s an easy and openly friendly Dolcetto di Dogliani with simple fruit aromas of blueberry and forest fruit. In the mouth, however, the wine is far more expressive thanks to its spicy tones of freshly ground black pepper and Indian spice.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 87