Informed by several parcels below the premier cru slopes, the Lafarge 2005 Volnay displays ultra-bright, fresh red currant accented by cherry pit and chalk, with a fascinating counterpoint of oily texture and refreshing brightness. In all of these respects, the wine is quite consistent with the character of this year’s generic cuvees and Cote de Beaune Villages. But here we have brown spice, citrus zest and sweet floral complexities, and a bright, mineral-saturated, zesty spicy persistence that suggests premier cru quality. In its trumpet-like bright treble, this sounds atypically lilting notes and in a major key, when compared with the vintage norm. The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70