Clerico waited an additional year to release his 2001 Barolo Percristina and that proved to be a wise choice, as the wine has clearly benefitted from the extra time in bottle. This sweet and powerful yet luxurious Barolo is loaded with ripe dark fruit, spices and chocolate that flow onto the palate with stunning length, delineation and balance. Made in an intense, full-bodied style, it still needs a few years before it fully hits its stride. Percristina is made from a south-facing plot in the Mosconi vineyard in Monforte. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Few producers' wines have given me as much pleasure over the years as those of Domenico Clerico. Based in Monforte, Clerico has been turning out spectacular Barolos since the mid-1980s. I find a spirituality and character in these wines that puts them in a class with few peers. The last few years have seen an evolution in Clerico's philosophy. He has gradually lengthened fermentation times and beginning with his 2005s also backed off the 100% new oak, perhaps the one criticism I have had of some wines in the past. For his 2003 Barolos Clerico shortened the fermentation time by a few days. "Given that the grapes already had a lot of tannins, it was important not to over-extract," says Clerico. "I used a high percentage of new oak for the Barolos. When we racked them, the wines aged in new oak turned out as I had hoped in that they were a little rounder than the wines aged in one-year old barrels. I am optimistic about 2003, the wines just need time for the tannins to soften. Look at what people said about the 1997s. The wines were supposed to fall apart, yet I think the best wines have held up beautifully." Clerico fans can also look forward to a very promising series of Barolos for the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages. The 2006s will include a new Barolo made from purchased Serralunga fruit. Readers who want to learn more about the history of the property may want to check out my article in the Italy Report section of www.erobertparker.com. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2001 Barolo Percristina, from magnum, has aged well, but it needs to be enjoyed over the next few years. Today the balance of fruit and oak is still good, but over time the oak tannins will dominate. Sweet red cherries, flowers, licorice, spices and mint wrap around the deep finish. The astringency of the oak is impossible to miss. It is tolerable while the fruit retains some depth, but once the fruit fades, all bets are off. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Without question the most surprising 2001s I tasted were those of Domenico Clerico. I loved these wines when they were released, rated them highly and bought them for my own cellar. I tasted the 2001s with Domenico Clerico and his team during a visit in November 2011, and then opened the wines from my own cellar back in New York. Oddly, I found the wines from my cellar in better shape than the wines I tasted in Piedmont. Still, time has not been kind to Clerico’s 2001s. I found all of the Baroli surprisingly forward and evolved. The tannins have softened some over the years, but now the fruit is dropping out and the wines are evolving rather quickly. The Langhe Rosso Arte, a 90% Nebbiolo/10% Barbera blend, is the wine that has aged best. And when the entry-level wine (Arte was the entry-level wine in 2001) has aged better than the top selections, there is a problem. Clerico was a long-time proponent of French oak, which he employed in very high levels until around 2005 or so. Maybe it was the toast levels. It’s hard to say exacly. What is pretty clear is that the 2001s are evolving at a fast pace and aren’t likely to improve much from here. Importers: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (800) 862-4585, Cutting Edge Selections, Mariemont, OH; tel. (513) 561-8555, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887, Robert Panzer Selections, Wilmington, DL; robertpanzer@hotmail.com, Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400, Selected Brands, FL; tel. (954) 428-0019, Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 547-6343, Estate Wines, tel. (415) 706-7975, Vinum Wine Importing & Distributing, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843, Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996

Wonderful depth of fruit in this young Barolo with crushed raspberries, dried flowers and lightly toasted oak. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and loads of fruit. Plenty of new wood. It needs time to all come together. Impressive. Best after 2008. 450 cases made.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add