The 2001 Merlot dell'Umbria is a spectacular buy. Aged five months in oak, and bottled with neither fining nor filtration, this dense ruby/purple-colored offering exhibits a big, sweet nose of cigar smoke, mocha, black cherry liqueur, and vanilla. Supple, ripe, and heady, it is a luscious, medium to full-bodied, hedonistic Merlot fruit bomb to drink during its first 4-5 years of life. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620