The 2012 Gago is pure Tempranillo from traditionally-farmed vineyards fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in a mixture of 1,500-liter foudres and barriques for 14 months. It has aromas of ripe plums, blackcurrants, smoke, licorice and lactic and cereal hints, hay and straw. The palate is medium to full-bodied with grainy, dusty tannins, moderate acidity and a certain elegant rusticity. It’s a polished Toro, keeping the character of the place. 40,000 bottles produced and 85% are exported. Drink 2014-2018. Importer: Vintus Wine, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, www.vintuswines.com