The 2010 Gago (in named in honor of Penfolds winemaker/ambassador?) comes from 40-year-old vines and is fermented in tank before aging in foudres and oak casks. There is a little Albillo and Malvasia intermingled with the Garnacha. It has the most reticent nose of the three wines that I sampled, but perhaps the most rewarding, with subtle notes of black plum, boysenberry, Indian ink and wilted violet petals. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, very fine tannins. The acidity is well-judged and lends the Gago a seamless, complete quality that rather puts the previous two wines in the shade. This is a succinct, more cerebral Toro red that should age with style. Drink now-2018+. Readers will already be aware of my admiration for one of Spain’s most talented winemakers. I tasted three recent releases from Telmo Rodriguez at my home. The project began in 1998 when he began searching for good terroirs with the Eguren family (see Numanthia/Teso La Monja.) The vines are only un-grafted bush vines, as one would expect given Telmo’s principles, which he espoused in last year’s video. Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000