A 2005 Volnay Fremiets – from 50 year old vines in a site bordering Fremiers and Jarolieres in Pommard – exudes red raspberry, red currant and sour cherry, with pleasantly sharp hints of brown spices, horseradish and citrus zest, and penetrates so brightly and with such cut that you might expect it to draw blood. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86). Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218

A 2005 Volnay Fremiets – from 50 year old vines in a site bordering Fremiers and Jarolieres in Pommard – exudes red raspberry, red currant and sour cherry, with pleasantly sharp hints of brown spices, horseradish and citrus zest, and penetrates so brightly and with such cut that you might expect it to draw blood. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted.Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86).Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218