The 2004 Barolo Riserva Vignolo impresses for its impeccable balance, silky fruit and polished tannins. The deceptively mid-weight yet graceful Vignolo has already begun to shut down in bottle, but it has more than enough pedigree to age beautifully for many, many years. Floral notes typical of Castiglione Falletto are woven throughout the finish. This is a gem from Cavallotto. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Cavallotto has been on a tear of late. This year I tasted a number of exceptional wines from this small, family-run property. In particular, readers should keep an eye out for the estate’s 2005s. Late flowering that year reduced the crop by nearly 50% and resulted in a set of huge, powerful wines that are atypical for the vintage and that should age exquisitely over the coming years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119