The 1998 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is clearly superior to its siblings. A fuller garnet, its intriguing nose of roses, tar, balsamic notes, nutmeg, and cinnamon give way to a firm but plush palate. Focused and with good density of texture and elegance of tannins, its warm, ripe finish and aftertaste add to its allure. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411