The 2003 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a big, super-ripe wine loaded with dark red fruit, melted road tar, spices, licorice and earthiness. The wine’s sheer opulence and richness almost manage to cover the tannins, but don’t be fooled, the wine has plenty of structure lurking beneath. The wine’s telltale floral aromatics reappear on the finish, giving the Vignolo a sense of lift as well as balance. These relatively compact soils retained just enough moisture to yield a Barolo of considerable class and vibrancy. Today, assessing the Vignolo and its sibling the San Giuseppe is like watching two thoroughbreds come out of the gates. It’s quite possible that the San Giuseppe will be the better wine over the long-term but today it’s the Vignolo that leads the pack. This terrific Barolo is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. I continue to be deeply impressed with the wines that are emerging from this family-owned property in Castiglione Falletto. Cavallotto makes their Barolos in an updated traditional style that has produced compelling results, especially over the last few years. Cavallotto is one of Piedmont’s best kept secrets, and not just for Barolo. Their entry-level wines offer superb quality for the money. Incidentally, I have seen a fair amount of 2000 and 2001 Barolo Bricco Boschis Riserva Vigna San Giuseppe on the US market recently at what are very fair prices, to put it mildly. Readers with access to those wines should run, not walk, as a number of recent bottles have been spectacular, especially for the money. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411