The 2004 Pinot Noir “Renegade Ridge Estate” spent 12 months in French oak. It has an excellent spicy nose of pain grille, cherry, raspberry, and spice box. On the palate it is more structured than the Premier Cuvee, has better grip, but a significant amount of gritty tannin intrudes on the finish. Drink this over the near-term. Tel. (800) 732-8822; www.archerysummit.com

A light entry holds flavors of strawberry and tomato leaf, then turns tannic. Chewy and earthy, with more than a hint of seed and stem, this wine comes from biodynamically farmed grapes that add some earthy nuances, but put too much emphasis on green tea, stemmy flavors.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 85