The 2004 Les Pallieres Gigondas, cropped at 28 hectoliters per hectare, possesses notes of crushed rocks, dried herbs, raspberry and cherry fruit, elegance, medium body, and a nice, slightly austere but impressive finish. It should drink well for at least a decade. At the request of Daniel Brunier, all of the estates where he produces wines have been grouped together. There are some changes, several of which I noted last year. The second wine of Vieux Telegraphe has changed its name from Vieux Mas des Papes to Telegramme, and of course there is a major effort underway by Brunier to dramatically increase the quality of La Roquette with the introduction of a new luxury cuvee of about 4,000 bottles made from 100% Grenache from 70-year-old vines planted in a sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Les Pialons.The importer is Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524, except for the Domaine La Roquette, which is imported by Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400