The 1989 displays that big, animal, almost savage, smoked-meat smell typical of an old-style Gigondas that puts some people off. In the mouth there are powerful, chewy, alcoholic flavors that clearly demonstrate that proprietor Roux's vines are quite old (three-fourths of his vines are over 70 years old, with the rest in their mid-teens). Full-bodied, spicy, but somewhat coarse and rustic, this broadly flavored, expansive Gigondas will no doubt drink well during its first 10-15 years of life. Last tasted 6/95.