The still youthful, light-gold colored 1954 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is subtle and complex, with notions of macadamia nuts, vanilla cream and butter-poached fruits all emerging from the glass. Like the other mature whites in this retrospective, it has notable freshness and purity, as well as a solid mid-palate, good fruit and a clean finish. It too gains flesh and fruit with time in the glass and was in no danger of cracking up.
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