Drawing its fruit from an often-overlooked corner of Monforte d'Alba (on the next hill over, facing Castiglione Falletto), the Giuseppe Mascarello 2015 Barolo Perno Vigna Santo Stefano opens to a sweet note of cherry and bright fruit that is so perfectly in line with the richness and succulence of this warm and sunny vintage. The Nebbiolo grape has captured every last sunbeam here, transmitting red fruit, cured tobacco, grilled herb and scorched earth in return. This vintage is slightly more accessible and open-knit in character.