The 2006 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno is a decidedly more important and interesting wine in this vintage. A fresh, vibrant hue leads to glorious dark fruit, menthol, spices and sweet medicinal herbs. Elements of classic austerity and ripeness play off each other as this structured, powerful Barolo opens up in the glass. This is a fabulous vintage for the Santo Stefano di Perno. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello makes some of the most compelling, traditional wines in Piedmont. Mascarello’s signature Barolo, Monprivato, rarely shows well when young, yet it has a proven ability to transform magically in the bottle, something I have witnessed first-hand with more vintages than I can remember. The irony is that by the time the wines start showing well they are long gone from the market or have appreciated dramatically in price. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484