The 2008 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno boasts a serious core of fruit, acidity and pure minerality. A sweet floral bouquet melds into expressive red berries in this firm, tightly wound wine. The Santo Stefano has clamped down significantly post-bottling. It will be interesting to see how long it takes for the wine to open up, but it was unquestionably more flattering from cask. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.
Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Baroli have closed down considerably since I tasted them from cask in November, 2011. The 2008s were just bottled a few months ago. I expect they will be more expressive in another 6-12 months. Overall, the 2008s are mid-weight wines built on grace and perfume. I don’t see the pure power of 2006 nor the opulence of 2007, to name two recent vintages, but wines that are built more along the lines of 2005. I expect the 2008s will age on their acidity rather than fruit, but these wines always have a way of transforming in bottle, so we will see. There is little doubt Nebbiolo did better here than Barbera in 2008, as was true throughout Piemonte. The 2008 Barberas are good, but average, or perhaps slightly better than that within the context of the estate’s long, established history.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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