The 2005 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno reveals a pretty core of dark fruit, herbs and spices in a medium-bodied style. This round, harmonious Barolo should drink nicely with a minimum of cellaring. The integrity of the fruit and the inner perfume of the 2005 are gorgeous and in this vintage the wine shows none of the angular edges that are present at times. With air, the wine gains volume and comes together very nicely. This is a gorgeous and very pure Santo Stefano from Mauro Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello has turned out two very pretty 2005 Barolos, but did not bottle his Villero as he waited until after the rains to pick the fruit and by that time the quality in the vineyard had been compromised. There is also no Ca d’Morissio in 2005, as that juice was blended into the Monprivato. Although Mascarello is best known for his Barolos, his entry-level wines also merit serious consideration. Although Mascarello’s Barberas aren’t as well-priced as they once were, they are capable of delivering tons of class and elegance. Readers who want to learn more about this iconic Barolo estate may want to check out my recent article on www.erobertparker.com. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484