So we moved on to the reds with the 2009 Reserva, a vintage where they harvested quite late and they compare to 2005, a powerful year. The blend is 70% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho (they use the masculine form of the name here), 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo from old terraced vineyards in the lowest part of the Oja valley where the river meets the Ebro. The grapes are fermented with their natural yeast in old oak wooden vats for 20 days with daily pumping-over and aged for two years in barrels, the first year in new ones, and the second year in used ones. The young nose is dominated by dark fruit aromas intermixed with notes of orange rind, licorice, Chinese ink and smoked peat. The palate shows some grainy tannins denoting a young but tender wine, with good intensity and acidity, ideal to have with food. They produce 850,000 bottles of this wine, which is remarkable given its high quality. Very Rioja. Drink 2014-2020.
I think the Muga family wines have been going from strength to strength and they are offering superbly-crafted wines from their cellars in the Barrio de la Estacion in Haro. I’ve seen a big change in Prado Enea starting with the 2004 vintage. As it happens, some of their wines are selling faster than they are produced (as they are not necessarily offered in every vintage) and they had no Prado Enea to show. The next vintage will be 2006, but there will be none in 2007 or 2008 and they need to fill the gap until the 2009 is released. The vintage of Torre Muga and Aro on the market is already 2010. There’s no stainless steel whatsoever at Muga, they have kept true to their beliefs, and all their wines are fermented in oak vats of different sizes. The winery has its own cooperage to mend these old vats and build their own barrels. I spoke to winemaker Jorge Muga during the harvest and he told me 2013 is a very difficult year, the most difficult he remembers ever. Mind you, he’s a young guy.
Imported by Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
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