The current releases include the sensational 1989 Muga Rioja Reserva. For $12, this is a terrific wine bargain. Made from 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and 10% Graciano, this rich, complex wine exhibits a Graves-like nose of minerals, caramel, vanilla, and super-rich, blackcurrant and cherry fruit. This sweet (from the high extraction of ripe fruit), full-bodied wine reveals that elusive lead pencil character found in some Bordeaux wines (especially in Pauillac), deep, chewy, concentrated flavors, a sense of elegance, a supple personality, and a long finish. Already delicious and complex, it promises to age effortlessly for at least a decade.
Importer: Jorge Ordonez 39 Constance Road, West Roxbury, MA 02132; telephone (617) 327-1613; telefax (617) 323-0455. I am delighted to note that Jorge Ordonez is one of only a handful of wine importers who exclusively uses reefer (refrigerated) containers for shipment of all his wines.