Weingut Tement Berghausen Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc Grosse STK Lage, Sudsteiermark, Austria

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The 2004 Sauvignon Blanc Zieregg, from new wooden ovals, features a nose of toasted almonds, fresh red currant and gooseberry. In the mouth, this medium-bodied wine is full of fruit, with low-toned nuttiness, leesy richness, and a decidedly chalk dust mineral character. What little oak character one notices here by way of lanolin flavor and graininess of texture harmonizes with the whole picture. The finish is embryonic but encouraging. This may well turn out to be as good as Sauvignon gets in South Styria this year. (I found the recently-bottled 2003 vintage of this wine rather swamped by new barrique-tone.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800